Recently, I attended a company meeting in New Orleans. Normally our rather large group is crammed into the banquet facilities of a hotel for dinner and served a mass produced meal of questionable inspiration.
This trip however, we were split into several small groups and each group went to a different French Quarter restaurant. From classics like Brennan’s, Galatoire’s and K-Paul’s to new stars like Stella, NOLA and Bayona, my co-workers got to experience New Orleans’ best.
My group drew GW Fins, an establishment that I had long been intrigued by, but one which I had also not heard much about. I was not overly enthused because I knew it meant I would have to break my long held rule of never ordering fish in restaurants (except for sushi). My cynical policy is based on many experiences both in restaurant kitchens and dining rooms alike.
Our trip to GW Fins was on a Tuesday night, and we were seated before 7:00. Yet, I was surprised to see the beautiful dining room was completely full, and several patrons were enjoying cocktails in the bar while waiting for their tables. The best way to describe the vibe at GW Fins is as a seafood version of a modern prime steakhouse. After doing some post-visit research, it is little wonder why: Both of the partners came from the Ruth’s Chris organization. The menu is an eclectic selection of all things seafood, both local and international, with a healthy nod to its French Quarter locale.
The great thing about dining with my group was that all agreed to share as many different things as we reasonably could. We started with a selection of appetizers that included a beautiful platter of #1 yellowfin sashimi and tuna tartare. The tartare was amazingly flavorful and fresh; it was one of the best things I have ever tasted. Other stars of the starter menu included a delicate lobster dumpling, buttery mussels simmered in a curry broth, and a crispy fried Maine lobster tail with remoulade slaw. All come highly recommended.
The entrées at GW Fins change daily, and feature fresh fish, shellfish and mollusks. Our party stuck mostly with locally caught offerings, and we were all extremely impressed. Each fish was prepared in a way that best suited its unique qualities. None were smothered or overpowered by its accompaniments.
I ordered a whole roasted pompano that was seasoned lightly with capers and lemon and served with polenta and tomato concasse’. It was superb, and more than anything, the freshness of the fish stood out. I also had the opportunity to sample wood grilled grouper and sautéed red snapper. Both were perfectly cooked and simply complimented by compound butters, melting over the fillets.
Our one departure from local seafood was a dish of grilled scallops, served with mushroom butter and a creamy risotto. They were also deftly cooked and exceptionally flavorful. For those with an aversion to seafood, GW Fins offers prime steaks and chicken as well.
Great seafood is as much about procuring the freshest, highest quality ingredients as it is about expert preparation of its delicate flavors and textures. GW Fins accomplishes both, and leaves it’s diners with a new definition of what seafood in New Orleans should be.
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